Cashmere 101

What to look for in cashmere and what are the differences between great and poor cashmere

First of all, always check the label. What many brands call "cashmere" is really just a poor blend between cashmere and wool. This can be much cheaper, but drastically inferior in terms of quality and feel, and more subject to pilling.

Additionally, while a 100% cashmere label can be technically accurate, it is often extremely misleading. Not all cashmere is equal. A jumper made with great cashmere is an investment, which will last a long time. Saving money on cheap options is a mistake that results in a less durable product, which will fall apart after a few washes. Inferior materials and inferior manufacturing translate to a much higher cost per wear. 

Cashmere Blanket Wrap - Ideal for travel

To an unexperienced eye it is not always easy to differentiate between great and low quality cashmere before the first few washes. Here we analyse what you should look for to make sure you are getting the best cashmere:

Length of fibres: From a technical point of view, quality of fibres depends on their thickness and length. The longer they are, the more resistant and durable the jumper will be, and it will also generate less pilling. Cashmere fibre lengths range from 28 to 42mm. Longer fibres are usually found on the neck and underbelly and are much more expensive.

Thickness of fibres: The lower the thickness, the softer the yarn will be. Fibres’ diameter can range from 15 to 19 micron, with massive impact on softness. Watch out however for baby cashmere; while some brands use this product for great marketing, it is actually too fine, compromising the durability.

Some brands indicate the specific stats of their fibres; the best will be around 40mm long and 15 micron wide. When no indication is given you will still be able to make some manual checks.

Touch the jumper to see if it is soft and light and place it on your neck to test if it is itchy or not. Be aware that some cheaper brands disguise the touch by adding resin to make jumpers softer in stores, but this effect will soon disappear. Other brands over-wash them, but this will make the jumpers wear out much faster. Also try to examine its surface. Excessive initial fluffiness might mean the yarn was spun from shorter and less resistant fibres. Similarly, move your hand on it and see if fibres begin to roll up; this could be due to a high percentage of short fibres, which will likely pill more.

Number of ply: Look for to two-ply cashmere garments, where two threads of yarn are twisted together to give a more resistant knit. Single-ply cashmere will be less durable and might develop holes more easily. Two ply also means that the sweater will be knitted more tightly, therefore being softer and warmer. Brands should say how many ply they have used in the garment, if not check how tight the knitting is and you should get a feeling.

Origin of fibres: Not all the cashmere goats are created equal. Some live in areas where temperature variation is higher, therefore their fibres are finer and more premium. Inner Mongolia is generally seen as the best origin, due to harsher winters and the better diet of the goats.

Colours of fibres: Before dyeing, fibres come in three natural colours: white, brown and beige. As you would expect, whiter cashmere fibres require less dye to generate specific colours, therefore reducing the negative impact that colouring has on its natural softness. High-end yarn spinners utilise a much higher proportion of white fibres for all colours, not only the lighter shades.

Type of fibres: Fibres can be divided into virgin and recycled. The former are made into yarns for the first time, while the latter come from waste or from old fabrics, either already used by customers or from unsold items. Recycled fibres are much less durable, less soft and itchier. The very cheap jumpers from mass chains usually are made with recycled fibres, either entirely or in big proportions.

Knit: Even when the cashmere yarn is of great provenance, poor knitting will negatively affect the final product both in term of look and touch. The better knitting can be recognised by a tighter knit. Try to stretch a part of the jumper and see if it goes back in shape easily. Products knitted in Italy or Scotland are usually a safer option compared to ones made in China, however it also depends on the individual companies so only choose brands that you trust.

How to take care of cashmere

Differently from wool, cashmere improves with wears and hand-washes, by becoming softer and developing a slightly fluffy layer, and keeps its shape much better over the years.

Queen & Grace | Cashmere Poncho

Here are some suggestions for washing cashmere garments:

• Cashmere comes from hairs and can therefore be washed in water, either by hand or washing machine
• Hand-washing with cool water (30°C) is the best method
• Always turn the garment inside out
• Use a delicate washing detergent (8+ Ph) or specialist cashmere wool wash (like Woolite), which usually also include some softener
• You can also use baby shampoo to give extra softness and maintain a soft and fluffy texture
• Do not bleach
• If you have a washing machine with a hand-wash cycle, this will also work; just make sure to set it to a cool temperature (30°C) and short cycle (no more than 30 minutes); you can spin dry as usual but do not leave the garment inside the machine afterwards
• Dry-cleaning is also fine, just ask for delicate detergent

How to dry and iron cashmere once washed:

• Do not wring the garment – remove excess water by gently pressing with a towel
• Lay the garment on a flat surface and stretch it while damp to its original shape
• Never hang cashmere garments to dry, they will stretch and lose shape
• Let it dry at room temperature over an airer, avoiding sunlight
• Iron at low temperature, using a pressing cloth as a divider; never iron directly on to the fabric

Maintenance and storage:

• Never hang cashmere garments in your wardrobe, always fold them when storing, otherwise they might lose shape
• When not using for an extended period, place inside a dust bag or sealable garment container to protect it from moths; place lavender or moth balls inside
• In case of pilling remove it with a cashmere comb or with shaving machine, which will make the garment like new; better to remove pilling after washing and drying, never on wet or damp fabric
• Protect from contact with Nylon (for instance with seat belts or inside jackets) which can damage the fibres

Conclusion

When you invest in great cashmere products, you are stepping up the longevity and luxury of your wardrobe, by adding items with several unique properties. These garments will keep their quality and shape longer than wool knitwear, therefore earning back your initial investment over the years, and giving you a lower cost per wear.

Some people might be fooled into buying very affordable cashmere from a big chain, but once you look at what you are actually buying, it becomes clear that the money is not always well spent. The product will look drastically different after a few washes. 

The best yarns, from companies like Cariaggi, with the whitest, longest and finest fibres, cost up to 200 euro per kg and brands need to circa 300 grams for a single jumper. Once you add in cost for knitting and finishing, it becomes clear that anyone selling jumpers at very low prices took some shortcuts.

The only problem with cashmere is that its luxury and softness is addictive. Once you try it, it will be difficult to go back to normal wool.